UPDATE: St. Johns Yacht Harbor, Charleston and on to Beaufort/Port Royal, SC

Currently Docked at : Port Royal Landing Marina   

Latitude 32 23 45.2 N   Longitude 080 40 39.4 W

http://www.portroyallandingmarina.com/index.htm

Thursday, Dec 17^th, 2008 we moved from McClellanville south past the Isle of Palms, crossed Charleston Harbor, down Wappoo Creek through the dreaded Elliot Cut and down the Stono River to St. Johns Yacht Harbor. The passage was fairly uneventful and the many miles of salt marsh we saw were breathtaking. Crossing Charleston Harbor and seeing the Battery and Fort Sumter from the water is always an awesome site, especially when you think of the history. 

We did have to deal with two bridge tenders (Ben Sawyer and Wappoo Creek Bridges) that need another profession. If I had to guess, neither of the women have ever had to deal with the strong currents that occur near these bridges. No matter how nice you are to these folks, they always seem to get a kick out of seeing sailing vessels caught up in the current and having to maneuver dangerously close to each other and the bridge while they decide to stop watching their game show or soap opera and press the button to open the bridge. Never mind that the hours we were passing these bridges they were supposed to open on request. These folks all seem to go to the same school of rudeness. Shame on the state officials who allow these folks to keep their jobs. They make a great impression for their state with their rudeness and attitude for the boating public.  They seem to have lost sight that they wouldn’t have a job if there were no commercial or pleasure boaters to open the bridge for. I’m planning to get off my soap box and write some letters to state officials to see if we can help change the attitudes of these people.

Friday, Dec 18^th we sat out the storm that hammered the east coast with rain and snow. I can’t remember the last time it rained all day and into the night with the intensity we witnessed. Serious flooding occurred in and around the Charleston area.

Saturday, Dec 19^th we were blessed with sunny skies and a visit from our family. Matt, Tara, Holden and Annalee came to visit us and we had a great day with them. They took us to downtown Charleston which is awesome at Christmas time with all the decorations. They also took us out to dinner at the Charleston Crab House. It was very special to see them and spend time with them on our way south.

Sunday we spent the morning with the kids and we were sad to see them go. The rest of the day we spent planning our next couple of runs down to Port Royal.

Monday we were greeted with frosty docks. What a way to wake up. We shoved off for Beaufort with a planned bail out point at Dataw Island Marina on the Morgan River if we couldn’t make the Bridge at Beaufort by 4:00 pm. Monday was cold but sunny and we enjoyed the scenery along the low country of SC. We decided to bail out and spend the night at Dataw Island and were glad we did. This is a beautiful marina off the ICW with lots of southern charm. The marina is part of a private golf course development and is 1^st class.

Today (Tuesday) we left Dataw Island and ran the 19 nautical miles (nm) to Port Royal Landing Marina which is about 3nm south of Beaufort. We left around 10:15 am and were tied up at the dock by 1:15. Another southern charm facility. These folks are very, very nice and helpful in every way. More to come from Port Royal and Beaufort as we plan on spending Christmas here.

UPDATE: Moving Down to Charleston and Points Beyond

Today (Wed. Dec.16) we made it to the awesome little fishing village of McClellanville, SC. What a picturesque town. It’s like going back in time. If you find yourself between Charleston and Georgetown on US 17 it’s worth stopping, having lunch or dinner and seeing the town. The old moss laden oaks covering the streets and the restored homes nestled in the beautiful maritime forest makes this a special off the beaten path stop.

Tuesday we transited the Waccamaw River from Osprey Marina (South of Myrtle Beach) to Georgetown. When we started out the river was covered in fog and it was eeriely quiet moving slowly through the fog with Cypress trees towering on both sides of the narrow headwaters of the river. We used radar, GPS and the fog horn until the fog lifted to reveal the awesome character of the river. The pictures to the right were taken after we got out of the dense stuff. As we moved south, the river widened until we made it to Georgetown, SC which is another awesome river town everyone should visit.

Monday (Dec 14^th) we left Coquina Harbor in Little River, SC (N. Myrtle Beach) and transited what some call the most dreaded part of the ICW, “The Rock Pile” to Osprey Marina on the Waccamaw River. This area of the ICW is extremely narrow and was blasted through rock by the Corps Of Engineers. The edges of the channel are lined with jagged rocks and have sunk or badly damaged many vessels wandering out of the narrow channel. This stretch of the ICW runs for about 10 to 15 miles and passing or meeting others vessels is a real problem. Glad to be through there. There was a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow waiting for us though. Osprey Marina is the best kept secret on the ICW so far. The marina is tucked away off the Waccamaw River and sports good old down home southern hospitality from the staff that makes you feel right at home.

Saturday we ran from Southport Marina in Southport, NC to Coquina Harbor in Little River, SC. This stretch was laden with many headaches. To begin with the bridge construction at the new Oak Island bridge held us up for about 2 and a half hours. This happened after we were told there would be no work performed on Saturday and the ICW would be open. We had to stay an extra day in Southport after we were told on Wednesday there would be no construction on Thursday. Good for us (and them) they answered the phone Thursday before we shoved off. To boot, the construction company didn’t answer the phone number when I tried to call them before getting underway on Saturday. On our approach to the bridge, the tugboat captain told us we could get through and then moved his tug and barge in the way to block the waterway for approximately 10 vessels trying to get through the area. We were told he would open the waterway in 30 minutes. An hour and half later, he told another vessel (VHF Radio Channel 16) that it would be another 2 hours before he could open. We decided to go back to a marina a half mile north of the site and stay there for the evening. The extra two hour delay would prevent us from crossing the shallow inlets at high tide. No sooner did we get docked (30 minutes after his 2 hour announcement ) and the Tug captain announced he was opening the waterway. We ran to the boat and shoved off and got through the construction area and on to our original destination.

As a North Carolina tax payer and professional who worked on many, many construction sites, I’m ashamed of how this project is being handled. The ICW is well know as a vital route for vessels (both commercial and pleasure) using the ICW as the only north/south inshore route. The commerce that occurs along this vital waterway brings many tax dollars to the state and revenue to local businesses providing services for commercial and pleasure vessels. Someone needs to be held accountable for the poor planning and havoc this project is creating. It can be different and must be different. 

On the bright side the new bridge being built at Sunset Beach (another new NC ICW bridge) will put one more bridge tender on a new career path. 

UPDATE: Waiting for the Blow to Pass (40 to 45 Knot Winds)

We are waiting for weather to calm down today at Harbour Village Marina so we can move down to Southport Marina tomorrow and on to SC for the weekend.  For the past couple weeks this weather pattern of a front every 3^rd day seems to be holding true to form. The section of the ICW we are transiting now (Morehead to Myrtle Beach) has many headaches to deal with on top of the weather. There are many shallow spots that have to be passed only at high tide. There are old bridges that do not open in high winds and new bridge construction that close the ICW for a day or two at a time.

We ran aground yesterday near high tide crossing the New River Inlet on the ICW and we were in the channel according to buoys and where the Army Corp of Engineers November waypoint survey said the channel was. Oh well, it’s been 15 years or more since I ran a boat aground. I guess I needed a reminder of why this should be avoided. It’s not good for the boat, crew or the captain’s attitude toward our government employees responsible for keeping our waterway channels marked.

  

We had a wonderful visit from our son Joe, daughter-in-law, Deidra and grandsons, Chris and Brian over the weekend while in Morehead City. We had fun going to the Maritime Museum in Beaufort and seeing the Christmas Boat Parade in Morehead City and the boys spent the night with us on the boat. We hated to see them leave Sunday.

Monday we moved “Wind Dust” from Morehead City to Swansboro where we stayed at Casper’s Marina. Tuesday we left Swansboro and headed for Topsail Island. Tuesday was not a fun day due to running aground and having to wait for bridge openings but we made it safely to Harbour Village Marina.

Capt. JP say’s we (USA) should start a new job creation program that employs construction workers to replace all ICW Bridges that have to be opened for passage of commercial and private vessels. It’s true this would put a few folks out of work (the Bridge Tenders) but most of them need an attitude adjustment anyway. 

UPDATE: Back to Oriental

Ginny and I made it to our old sailing grounds of Oriental, NC yesterday, Tuesday, December 1^st. Sure seemed good to be back here and see old friends. We are staying at the Oriental Marina and it has been great. The Christmas lights here have put us in the Christmas spirit and it feels good.

We left Portsmouth, VA. On Saturday, November 28^th and ran down the ICW to Coinjock, NC. We met a young family in Portsmouth over Thanksgiving who is traveling on a Vagabond 47 which is almost identical to our previous boat. We gave been running together for the past few days and have really enjoyed getting to know them.

Sunday, November 29^th we ran from Coinjock down the North River, crossed the Albemarle Sound and up the mighty Alligator River to the southern end where we anchored for the evening. Every time we do this leg I am always in awe of the natural beauty of the NC coast and coastal rivers.

Monday, November 30^th we transited the Alligator River/Pungo River canal then down the Pungo River to Belhaven.  While in the canal, boneheads on power boats from Cape May, New Jersey almost ran us into the canal stumps with their big wakes from their power boats. They don’t have enough sense to know they are financially responsible for damage that occurs when they are irresponsible.  The Pungo River was stirred up with heavy wind and we were glad to pull in behind the sea wall in Belhaven just as the wind velocity ramped up to 40 knots. We waited a while and got the anchor set. The wind died in the afternoon just to come back with a vengeance around 9:30 pm with the approaching front. The wind clocked around as the front approached and we again saw 40 knots of wind for a while. I was up until after midnight making sure our anchor didn’t drag. Not one of those nights you wish or hope for but one that you have to tolerate every now and then.

Tuesday, December 1^st, we left Belhaven and ran the ICW down the Pungo River then crossed the Pamlico River to the Bay River then up the Neuse River to Oriental. The weather was awesome and we had a great run.

Wednesday, December 2^nd we stayed in Oriental and had visits from friends who live here. It was great to see them and relax for a day. It rained almost all day and the wind picked up around 11:30 pm as the front came in. We had heavy winds blowing straight into the dock and I had to get up and run more lines to the pilings. Listened to a USCG rescue that was unfolding off the NC coast on VHF channel 16 until around 2:30 am. Still not sure what happened but the last transmission I heard they CG was sending a 2^nd rescue helicopter.

Thursday, December 3^rd – the glue in Oriental was very sticky so we stayed another day and waited for better weather to move on.

Friday, December 4^th we backed out of the slip and headed out for Morehead City Yacht Basin looking forward to seeing our oldest son and his family.